Ego: In many ways, the work of a critic is easy. We risk very little, yet enjoy a position over those who offer us their work and their selves to our judgment. We thrive on negative criticism, which is fun to write and to read. But the
bitter truth we critics must face is that the grand scheme things the average piece of junk is probable more meaningful than our criticism designating it so. But there are times when a critic truly risks something and that is in the
discovery and defense of the new. The world is often unkind to new talent, new creations. The new needs friends. Last night, I experienced something new, an extraordinary meal from a singularly unexpected source. To say that both the meal and its maker have challenged my preconceptions about fine cooking is a gross understatement. They have rocked me to my core. In the past, I have made no secret of my disdain for Chef Gusteau’s famous motto, “Anyone can cook.” But I realize only now do I truly understand what he meant. Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere. It is difficult to imagine more humble origins than those of the genius now cooking at Gusteau’s, who is, in this critic opinion, nothing less than the finest chef in France.
伊葛：从很多角度来说，评论这个工作还是比较简单的。我们不冒什么风险，还享有很好的地位，其他人则向我们提供他们的作品，并且期待自己被评判。我们只是批量制造那些写起来和读起来都很有意思的负面评论。但是我们评论家还要面对一个残酷的事实，那就是令人咂舌的现实：每一块垃圾食品都有自己的价值，至少比我们评论的要好。但是有时候评论还是有风险的，那就是发现并护卫新兴事物。对于有才华的新兴的事物，这个世界总是太苛刻。有些新事物需要帮助。昨晚，我经历了一次全新的体验，一顿来源不同寻常的美味佳肴。保守的说，这顿美味和它的烹饪者都挑战了我对于美食的理念。他们把我的理念彻底颠覆了。过去我从不隐瞒我的蔑视，引用一句古斯多大厨的名言来说，就是“人人可饪”。我现在才完全领会到其中的真正含义：不是每个人都能成为艺术家，但是一个杰出的艺术家可能来自于任何地方。相比那个在古斯多工作的天才厨师，很难再想象有比他更低贱的出身了。而他，从一个评论家的角度来看，毫不逊色于法国的任何一个大厨。